Here’s a quick update on Jack’s paw.
There’s are a couple things going on in this shot:
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First off, I’ve poured a layer of silicone and am letting the bubbles come up, before I bury them in more heavy silicone. That’s a useful trick to remember. Some mold-makers pour a thin sheeting layer, poke bubbles with chopsticks and work silicone into cracks with a chip brush, but in this case the paw shape was very clean because it was formed vertically and there’s next to nothing to trap bubbles under.
Second, you can see a bit of my adjustable mold frame. This is a trick I learned from the good folks at Smooth-on, who teach a terrific 2-day mold-making seminar in Easton, PA, a few hours from my house. I made the frame out of polypropylene butcher block, which is great because nothing sticks to it and it’s incredibly durable. You use 4 clamps to hold the corners and you can slide the pieces in and out to get a precise (rectangular is the only option) shape. The key to this system is having a nice flat base, in my case, a granite counter-top. A bit of vaseline along the bottom of the frame helps seal it.
When it’s cured, you just unclamp the clamps and it comes right off.
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The silicone has about the consistency of cheese (gouda, not brie) and cuts easily with scissors or a knife. It peels right up off the countertop with a tug. In this case, because the plaster at the bottom of the paw was porous, the plaster wound up glued to the countertop, but it came off with some tugging and a bit of a slice along the bottom with a kiridashi.
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If you look at the plaster, you can see a spot where I put some clay to fix an under-cut. Jack’s paw pad appears to have shifted slightly to the side (dog paws are squishy, that’s how they provide such impeccable traction control) so I packed clay under it.
Then I went down to the basement to grab some urethane plastic to stir some bronze into and … oops, I’m out. So it’s going to have to sit there a few days while UPS does its magic and brings me a sample-size bottle of Smooth-On Color-Pro polyurethane plastic.

You can see I slightly chamfered the edges of the plaster with a kiridashi, to make the casting a bit less edgy.
The fidelity of silicone is so amazing that it feels like it’s molecule-perfect detail. Unlike with other molding materials, you can pretty much indefinitely copy silicone from silicone and it’ll hold its detail. Not that I need a thousand copies of Jack’s paw.

“The fidelity of silicone is so amazing that it feels like it’s molecule-perfect detail. Unlike with other molding materials, you can pretty much indefinitely copy silicone from silicone and it’ll hold its detail. Not that I need a thousand copies of Jack’s paw.”
Very true. I made some molds for tabletop gaming pieces from wood and everytime I use them, I am astonished by the details of texture that got caught.
> The fidelity of silicone is so amazing that it feels like it’s molecule-perfect detail. <
That's why it's used for dental impressions. i remember the days when we had to use "compound" in a copper ring fitted round the tooth.
The compound was basically a hard thermoplastic wax and was a bugger to use.
I can confirm.