I was making some notes for myself, and decided to share them. Why not?
From the design of each door, I can derive a parts-list and assembly order. My plan is to put tape marks down the hallway and make a small pile of each component as I bring them off the table-saw.
Looking at these charts also helps me think about where the materials will be strong or weak. It’s a trade-off against the amount of material being used. For example, I can make the doors 8′ 6″ tall pretty easily, but unless I do some kind of trick to make the long sides 6″ longer, I’ll need pieces of wood longer than I can cut from a sheet of plywood. I could cut the sides and patch in a 6″ chunk, then cut back the sides where the kick panel goes, and the whole door will be stronger and about twice as complicated to make. Does it matter? The question is whether two pieces of 3/4″ plywood are going to be stable enough. My guess is that they will, especially since they’ll be standing on one edge and gravity will not be pulling any particular side down.
On the open wall of the shed, there is a beam across, about 8′ 8″ up (I need a more precise measurement) I can mount the header rail onto. The bottom rail is going to be a 3″ wide piece of 3/4″ polypropylene butchers’ block with grooves table-sawed into it. On the bottom of each door will be another piece of polypropylene butchers’ block, screwed onto the foot of the door. That’ll do three things: the doors will not sit in water (good!), it’ll provide a slippery warp-free sliding surface, and the lower poly rail will act as a water barrier against wind-driven rain, to keep it out of the building. I can get a good enough tolerance on my table-saw that the floor-rail will be practically water-tight. I probably should buy some thinner poly so I don’t have to waste the 3/4″ stuff; it’s expensive.
The rails of the 2nd layer will need cuts into them to support the latticework. That’s the most detailed work I’ll have to do, and it’ll take seconds per piece with my hand jigsaw. I may make the latticework out of 3/4″ plywood instead of 1/2″, to make it less likely to warp and thick enough to support a screw through the fiberglass sandwich. If I do that, I’ll need to chisel 1/4″ of wood off the ends, which is not a big deal.
So, the plan is to cut all the pieces, then assemble 6 sets of the first 2 layers. Then, I’ll paint the exposed surfaces of the last layer, place the fiberglass, add glue, and screw the whole thing together. It should be much, much easier to do the painting with the doors semi-assembled so I don’t have to work around the lattice in the middle.
I have just finished playing Ghost of Tsushima (short review: it’s really good!) and one of the things I immediately fell in love with, in that game, is the interiors of the Japanese buildings of the period. They did quite a good job of capturing peasant homes, castles, forts, and specialist buildings. I was happy to note that the blacksmith’s studio even had correct Japanese-style anvils (not a European horned anvil) and dogs’ head hammers (which should be called “capybara-faced hammers”). I wish I had the patience to build a shop that looked like a 13th-century forge, but that would be effort down the drain; I don’t really need to try to impress anyone with my set-up, I just need to be happy with what I create for myself.