Soooo. Yesterday I turned the muck pile. I wanted to do it today, but I changed that plan. Tomorrow I am leaving for a few-day’s trip and I did want to be at least a bit rested before the several hours-long drive.

When turning the pile, there were visibly different forms of decomposition taking place. There were hot spots, all wet and mushy. And there were also cold spots, full of white fungal growth. It was visible that the pile was unevenly watered, which is understandable since I was watering it with cans without the shower spout. Looking at it and realizing that even the dry-ish spots are actually decomposing in the environment made me think that an inconsistently wetted compost pile is perhaps not a bad thing. The wet spots get hot and decompose, and the dry spots allow for gas exchange with the environment. It still had 50-70 °C all over before I turned it and mixed it anew, and since it was cold outside, visible steam rose from it. Unfortunately, I was unable to take a picture of that.

In the days before that, I prepared this, the bean-growing patch. I tilled a grid of 25 squares, approx 50×50 cm, spaced approx 50 cm so I can go between them with a lawn mower. That took me several days since the lawn is tough. Not only due to the ancient grass-growth, but also due to the high content of quartz stones. A fact of which I will never cease to remind you. I collected two full 10 l buckets of stones over 2 cm in diameter.

When the squares were tilled, I planted tall poplar poles in each corner, and I bound the tips over them. I stripped the bark from the poles at about 20 cm at the bottom, and I left them dry for a few weeks before planting them so they do not take root.

I can plant up to two bean plants near each pole and a few corn plants along the edges, too. In the middle, I plan to plant pumpkins. This is an experimental patch for the “tree sisters” system. All three plants should be able to grow fast enough to outgrow the weeds and the grass in the tilled patches. We will see how that goes. At least for the beans, this system is actually tested, and they should thrive in the grass. I am growing beans in the grass for years by now, on the south wall of my house.

I still have about 80 poles left unplanted. I can either put them somewhere dry to save them for next year, or I can make another patch. I still have plenty of unused space left. I will decide what to do when I return from my trip.

I repotted my citrus trees and laurels. While I was at it, I harvested all the laurel leaves/bay leaves that I could. It is not a huge harvest, but it is enough for our needs for the whole year.

My last big apple tree started to blossom.

This is a graft from the dead tree that I grafted a few years back on some unspecified apple tree that sprouted from the roots of another dead tree planted by my grandfather. The rootstock is very hardy since I originally tried to kill it, and only when I failed, I tried to graft it. It is the only successful graft I have ever done.

The compost pile was heating up very unevenly, so I decided to not wait until Friday and I turned it today. I also added all the grass clippings and dead leaves I had elsewhere. Now it is all in one huge pile of moss and grass, and leaves, approximately 2 cubic meters in volume. When forking it over, I also noted that the moss started to heat up and decompose too, but unevenly as well – there were completely dry patches in it where nothing happened whatsoever. So when I was done turning and mixing it all, I poured approximately 200 l of water into it from the seeping pond at the end of my sewage cleaning facility. When I measured the temperature at four different points in the evening, it was already over 30°C  in all of them, so it is heating up. I might pour some more water on it during the week since it is not raining, and it should not be possible to overwater a compost pile.

A little note on making a compost pile – it is important to lay the material in flat layers and for the whole pile to have a flat top, especially when making it from longer dead grass like old hay or straw. If you pile it in a cone or round heap, the grass on top can work like a thatch roof, effectively shielding the center of the pile from water.

This morning, the compost pile was steaming slightly, and although my nose cannot detect it, it probably also smells of ammonia. It attracted some flies and one dung beetle, despite being completely dung-free.

I feel slightly sorry for the poor fellow searching for their shit-snack in vain.

The first potato plant poked out of the ground. That is slightly premature; frost is still possible. I am watching the weather forecast like a hawk every day.

The spinach is so far growing very, very slowly, and it does not look like much. Preliminarily, I am skeptical about this crop.

I started to harden off the basil by exposing it to direct sunlight for a few hours each day. So far, no plant has been burnt and they look healthy enough. Once the danger of frost is over, they go outside.

The first beans are emerging from the soil, too. We shall see how many will actually sprout. I sown a lot.

I did not have much luck with sweet corn these last two years. So far, I have just 25% germination rate this year. I really hope that more emerge from the ground, otherwise I will be pissed.

Clusters of shallots look promising.

And so do the onions.

Teensy tiny carrots have shown up in most, although not all, egg baskets.

And lastly, peas sprouted today, too. They are a good indicator of slug infestation; they are literal slug magnets. So far (knock on wood), the slugs have not shown up this year. I have seen only three, which I killed instantly. It is possible that it is due to the much colder and frostier winter and much sunnier and drier spring. Even so, I have spent the winter researching slug traps, and if they start to show up, I will try a few things.

I had a very busy week in the garden, although I had to push the pause button for two days due to rain. I repotted all bonsai trees that were urgent, and now I can spend a few days taking some new ones out of the nursery and perhaps start putting them into pots. And I spent a lot of time on other works too.

Firstly, I raked a lot of dead grass and tree leaves out of my coppice and around the wire fence. The result was a slightly bigger pile than the moss one I showed you last time. The raking almost led to a relapse of my back pain, but luckily, it seems that a day of rest in the warm has helped.

Having a huge pile of dead grass and leaves has inspired me to do something that I normally do not do – hot composting. I had to do my first mowing of the lawn anyway, and that always results in a huge pile of green grass clippings.

I normally do not bother with hot composting; I only do slow composting. I dump all organic material throughout the year in one designated spot in the garden, and maybe once a year, I turn it, and then I leave it be until I need it. With grass clippings, it is important to let them dry first, otherwise the pile ferments anaerobically and too quickly and starts to stink mightily. That is why I rarely use the collecting basket on my lawn mower. This time, I did use it and I mixed the fresh, wet clippings with the old leaves and dry grass atop the moss pile. It increased its height twice, and its volume probably three-four times.

That is a big pile, but it still was not enough to use all the grass. The first reason why I do not bother with hot composting is that I usually have just too much green grass and never enough browns. For reference, it took me 5 hours of continuous mowing to cut most, not all, of my garden. I walked about 18000 steps whilst doing it, which is probably more than 10 km (I have long steps).

 

So after I started my experimental “hot” pile, I simply dumped the rest of the freshly cut grass on another spot. Since I did not let it dry first this time, it might ferment, but I am not that bothered by the smell. Depending on the weather, I will probably get the same amount of grass several times over during the summer. Which is the second reason why I do not bother with hot composting – I have enough work to keep up with the grass alone. Turning the compost pile over to aerate it would just add a lot of work, and I simply do not want to bother with that. I am only doing it this time because I hope to get compost more quickly to hill up the potatoes when they sprout. It does not need to be perfect for that; it just needs to not be stringy and matted, and it must be decomposed enough to not be hot anymore. That is a lesson that I learned the hard way – even a small pile of organic material might heat up enough to “burn” plants nearby.

I’d love to have a better use for my garden than having to mow grass on most of it, but that is not feasible. Starting an orchard is not possible due to water voles – hell, even starting and maintaining a firewood coppice is a challenge due to those fuckers. Not to mention that I would still need to mow the grass under the trees. Converting it all into vegetable patches is not doable either, not for one person. In the past, we had geese and rabbits who used up the grass and converted it into edibles, but I am not the right kind of person to have poultry or rabbits. So, mowing and composting are the only ways. That at least helps improve the soil on the vegetable patches significantly over the years.

I am almost on top of the work again, and I should be able to start re-potting bonsai tomorrow. Yesterday it rained, and today I tidied up most of the garden.

Before the rain, I managed to run the garden over with the verticutter again, scraping out an awful amount of mess.

It was a huge, fluffy pile that sagged a bit in the rain but not very much. I was considering what to do with it to accelerate decomposition. Moss takes a very long time to die, even in a pile. And after that, it takes a very long time to decompose because it is very poor in nitrogen. Out of the various ways to add nitrogen, I decided on Calcium cyanamide. It should initially kill all the moss and plant material in the pile, and after a while, when the pile gets colonized by bacteria, it should decompose faster. At least those are my hopes.

I estimated that I will have approx one cubic meter of slightly compressed moss, and for that, according to a quick Google search, about 0.5 kg of fertilizer should suffice. So I took a fork and I tidied up the pile, stomped it down a bit, and added the fertilizer throughout. Then I watered it even more with about 30 l of water. I am curious how this experiment turns out.

Due to everything being wet, I could not shred the reed stalks, so I had to break them manually. I added them around the garlic and strawberries to serve as a mulch.

And I also used a few bundles of reed stalks to line the walkpaths between the vegetable beds. This way, I won’t get mud glued to the soles of my shoes whenever I need to go there after rain. And they also should not get overgrown with weeds.

The first fruit tree started flowering – the rootstock of my plum.

I planted one of these separately and tried to graft the plum on it again, so I have two trees. The graft failed, but the tree continued to grow and eventually flower. I also let a second tree to freely sprout from root suckers because it was growing so vigorously that the plum itself might have problem to actually keep the roots alive. I have seen this happen to aronia grafted on mountain ash and thus I left mountain ash root suckers to grow on my aronia too and it has thus outlived other plants by about a decade by now and it still looks healthy. I do not think the old gardening wisdom of removing all suckers all the time is all that wise in this regard because trees need to have a harmony between what is above and below the ground. The voles managed to destroy some other trees by gnawing the roots faster than they can recover, and in my opinion, it is also possible for trees to die when too slow-growing graft is put on to vigorous stock. It is just my opinion based on my personal experience; I am not aware of any studies on the subject. I do not think one is forthcoming because it would take several decades of dozens of trees to be grown in the same environment and meticulously documenting all outputs. Which won’t happen, it would take too long for even a post-graduate researcher to see the fruits (no pun intended) of their labor.

I actually like the flowers of the rootstock and it is a shame that while it flowers extensively, there is very little fruit on it. Because although the fruit is more stone than flesh, it is actually very tasty. I like the flowers anyway and not everything in the garden needs to be useful to me directly. Although I would argue that providing early food to polinators actually is useful to me down the line.

I put the bell peppers in the greenhouse, but I have not planted them in the ground yet. A bout of frost still can hit us, and I want to be able to move them indoors in case that happens. Nevertheless, the plants are apparently doing well because they have started to flower. I had played a bee with a fine brush because it was still too early for actual bees to get into the greenhouse, even if I left the door open. Which I do not do now, it is often still too cold.

I also re-potted basil and oregano into individual pots, 21 plants of each. The jury is still out on whether they survive and if I manage to grow a sufficient supply of my favourite spices.

And the last flower is on a cutting of a hibiscus that my mother put in a glass of water. Normally, these cuttings drop the flower buds, but this one did not. There won’t be any use out of this, and it is not, strictly speaking, gardening-related. I include it because I think it is beautiful.

Initially, I bought three packets of onion seeds and two packets of overwintering onions that were planted in the fall together with the garlic. But two of three seeds did not germinate at all and the germination rate of the third one was abysmal. I bought further two packets of seeds and those had high germination rates, but they were still tiny and I was not very confident they would grow much. Thus I ordered several further sets of onions. It was difficult to estimate how much to order since they are sold by weight, not by number. I decided to go for four onion sets and one shallot set á 250 g.

To make it quick and easy to plant them in my favorite triangle pattern, I made a thingamajig to mark six holes at once. First I used it to scratch three parallel divots in the soil and then I poked in and wriggled it about a bit to mark the holes.

It worked like a charm, I was planting onions like no bee’s knees. I planted all the onions in a 10×10 cm pattern, and the shallots in 20×20 cm pattern.

I also continued to pick stones that got in the way while planting. Even after working on this soil for over half a century, sometimes even sieving portions of it, I still reliably got half a bucket full of stones.

And here you can see the pile of stones behind my garden shed, with the broken bathroom sink for size comparison. All this is from picking stones from the vegetable patches over the last year. Last summer, I used up almost all the stones on this pile to repair my walkway. Now it looks like I did not touch it and it is likely to continue growing until the next time I find a use for them.

With the onions firmly planted in the ground, I lightly brushed the soil over them with a broom. Onions are not supposed to be planted deep so this should suffice.

There still may come late frost but I decided to plant the onion seedlings too since they were getting in the way and on my nerves. I overcrowded those since I will not be trying to grow them into big bulbs – if they survive, they will probably be used mostly green.

I delineated my onion patches with willow twigs and watered them thoroughly. As you can see, they take up a lot of space. Twice as much as I wanted them to in fact. The sets contained a lot of tiny onions, and as can be seen in the picture, one variety even contained a lot more than the other three (ca 30% more) despite them all having the same weight. If they all survive and grow, I could end up with more onions than I can reasonably need and I will have to try to trade some for something else or force them upon unsuspecting family members and friends.

I also planted green peas using the same thingamajig. It too worked like a charm and  I am very glad I made it. It makes the work so much quicker that it saved me the hour and a bit I spent making it several times over. I will probably make another one with 15 sm spacing for crops that need slightly more space.

The peas will need support so I cut a bunch of approx. 80 cm long willow twigs and put them in a sunny place to dry up. I do not need to poke them in the ground near the peas before they poke out of the ground. It is better to let the stakes dry out as much as possible before using them, otherwise they take root.

And yesterday I started harvesting radishes. From now on for about a week, these will be daily condiments accompanying our dinners. They are delicious and once I am done with them, I will tell you how much (in kg) I got from one packet of seeds.

I’ve never grown carrots. We do not really have the soil for it – it is heavy clay with lots of stones.  We also have a lot of wireworms around here and they do a lot of damage to everything underground. And we have wild carrots and related plants in the surrounding meadows and thus we also have carrot flies. My father tried to grow them once, without success. This year, I decided to give it a try and grow a few. And I did several things to maximize my chances of success.

The first was that I deep-plowed my main vegetable patch, as I said before. And I continued to take stones out of the soil on that patch, which, even after decades of doing so, still produces several buckets every spring (I got three this year again already). If I did not know better, I would have thought that stones grow from the soil and not the other way around. But still, this huge vegetable patch is most definitively the least stony area of my garden.

As the second thing I decided to not sow the seeds directly into the ground but in small seeding trays made from paper egg packages. My father removed the bottoms and filled them with substrate. I wetted the substrate to compress it a little.

After that I let the seeds germinate on a wet paper towel in a receptacle under a lid. Carrots have a relatively poor germination rate directly in soil and they have to be thinned afterwards. The process of thinning allegedly attracts carrot flies and I wanted to avoid that. Today I carefully picked germinated seeds with a BBQ skewer and I placed one of them into each receptacle in the egg trays. I planted 228 seeds this way (12 trays á 10 and 6 trays á 18).

I planted the whole trays in the center of the vegetable patches. That way they will be as far from the surrounding grass as possible, which should shield them a bit from both carrot flies and wireworms.

And lastly, for today, I thoroughly watered the planted trays. We shall see if it is a success and they at least poke out of the ground. I have no idea how long it should now take for something green to show up. The only thing I can do now is to water them and wait.

Tomorrow I will start planting onions around these trays. Those should allegedly further repel pests and they also allegedly should not compete much with the carrots. I will probably stop the onion planting about 20 cm from these trays anyway so the carrots have an adequate amount of light.