Roadtrippin'

Out of pre-loaded posts for ye. Also out of energy. But here’s a few outtakes to tide ye over ’til I can coherently write something about our adventures. Which may not be for several days – I expect to be comatose upon arriving home.

Additionally, I’m not certain the cat will allow me to live after abandoning her for so long.

Mah first experience with Mt. Mazama ash:



Near Crescent Cutoff on Hwy. 58. The stuff’s full of little pieces of pumice. Little, that is, until you consider how far they were hurled by the mountain, which was probably 20-30 miles away as the crow flies. Pumice shouldn’t fly that far. The fact that it did should tell you something that’ll keep you awake at night.

And Mt. Mazama its own self.



There was an in-joke at the bookstore I worked at. We had an inordinate number of customers come in and describe what they were looking for thusly: “I need this book, I don’t remember the title or the author or what it’s about, but it’s this big and it’s blue.” That’s about what it’s like looking down on Crater Lake for the first time. For just a moment, you forget the context of what you’re looking at. All you can think is, “Holy shit, it’s this big and it’s blue!” I have to go to Home Depot when I get back and get those little paint sample cards, so I can match up the color of the lake. It’s so blue that I’ve seen cobalt blue paint that didn’t look quite so intense. The color shifts with every change in light and perspective, but it never stops being an overwhelming, brilliant blue.

And, finally, moi at Fort Rock:



Here’s what you need to know about it, and what we’ll go in to in more detail later on: this is a bloody volcano that erupted under a Pleistocene lake. Under the lake. That’s why it’s hollow.

If that isn’t weird geology, there’s no such thing as weird geology.

Tomorrow, it’s off to Newberry and McKenzie Pass, and then back to Corvallis. If I’m lucky, we’ll make it home to Seattle that night, because as incredible as all the geology’s been, I miss mah kitteh. And I’ll need about ten years to sort through all the photos.

You’re in for treats, my darlings. Stay tuned…

Roadtrippin'
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The Bee's Knees and Other Stories

My relationship with insects has fundamentally changed since I acquired a camera with excellent macro abilities. Creepy-crawlies just creeped me out. I had an intellectual understanding that critters had important functions in food chains and other sorts o’ things, but as for admiring them… yeah, not so much.

There was a time when I’d look on a crane fly with disgust rather than pleasure. But then I bought this camera, and turned it on an insect because it was a convenient thing to test the macro function on, and suddenly, the unregarded arthropods and suchlike were revealed as gorgeous lifeforms deserving of admiration.



There’s your common crane fly. It came to live with us briefly this summer, flying in through the door my cat insists stay open. It landed on the wall above the stove, and sat there with its transparent wings all iridescent in the light. Yes, it’s a turf pest, and lawn owners everywhere probably aren’t fond of them. But they cause no harm to humans (other than messing up their pristine lawns) and they’re actually quite lovely.

Even lowly flies become rather more attractive prospects when you’ve got the proper camera and they’ve chosen the right background:



I’ve caught myself looking at them closely, admiring their little bodies with their various colors and their odd hairs. I look into their eyes and marvel at the compound complexities. Mind you, I whip out the Windex of Doom when too many of them sneak into the house and take up positions on my bathroom mirror, but I don’t mind one or two zipping about the place. I’d better not. My cat doesn’t understand the concept of closing the door, and insects don’t understand the concept of indoors mine-outside yours.

According to Savage Chickens, there’s an excellent way to deal with both arachnophobia and spiders in the house. I’ll have to try it. Not arachnophobic, anymore, but it would still be nice if the poor little beggars wouldn’t come in here just to starve to death, or meet my Great Northern Tissue of Doom if they insist on living somewhere like my bed.

Before I got this camera, I would’ve watched from a vaguely interested distance whilst the millipede I’d disturbed dug its way back into the ground. As the lighting conditions were teh suck, I decided to place this one on a more contrasty background before letting it go its merry way:



It started out curled up, but quickly uncurled and got to exploring, with tiny little feet tickling my palm. And it didn’t feel creepy or gross – it felt adorable. I let it walk off my hand and find its happy place again. For a moment, there, I forgot all about the soil I was investigating, and just enjoyed an unexpected encounter with one of the denizens of said soil.

But what’s really changed is my relationship with bees.

I used to be terrified of bees (despite not having an allergy that would justify said terror). I used to flee from every bee, certain the little bastards wanted nothing more than to sting me. Then I got this camera. Suddenly, my fear of bees completely vanished. I adore them now. If they’re occupied with noms, I can get up quite close, and they don’t mind me a bit. They’re not out to get me, they’re just making a living. As long as I don’t trap them or threaten their hive, they seem perfectly content to let me snap away while they get on with the living. But I shall put my beautiful bees below the fold, because I know some of you aren’t so admiring, and often for good reason.


Here is a rather preoccupied bee from Madrona Park:



Look at all the pollen on her little legs! I believe those are pollen baskets, which I didn’t even know about until just now, when I went to discover whether I should refer to this beauty as he or she. Clearly, I have got a lot to learn about bees.

But how bloody adorable is that? She’s just hanging there, arranging her pollen, gathering more, busy as a – well, y’know, bee.

We saw some utterly lovely bees up on Cougar Mountain. The thistles are in bloom, covered in pollen, and a few enterprising bees were out getting covered in the stuff.



There are several nice things about thistles. They’re tall, which means one doesn’t have to bend down for a shot. They’re rich sources of prime bee food, which means the bees tend to stick with one flower long enough for a third-rate camera jockey such as myself to get her shit together for a decent shot. And they’re purple. I like purple. I like how the purple makes such a lovely contrast to the nice tawny golds and velvet blacks of the bees.

This little fellow spent so much time on this thistle, and was so intent on it, that I was able to get in quite close and get some great photo-ops.



She’d get her head right down in there, her little pollen-coated tush sticking out in the air, and dig deep for the good stuff. Then she’d bounce back up and choose another bit.



I love that shot, because it shows off her wings so well. Bees are incredible little fliers. Two hundred and thirty flaps per second, people. Those tiny little gossamer wings are lifting and propelling a fairly large body. It’s hard to believe something so short and desperately thin can propel those plump little bodies through the air so efficiently, but they manage it beautifully.



There’s a nice shot, contrasting the sleek and shiny wings with the fuzzy body. They’re so furry! That fur makes an excellent trap for pollen, and the thistles seem to have evolved to take as much advantage as the bees do, because every petal is dusted in pollen.



She’s practically swimming in those petals, diving down, paddling round. She was fascinating to watch.

My relationship with wee little living things is certainly different now. There’s a beauty in these tiny, so often unregarded animals that overcomes the ick factor. Mind you, I haven’t quite reached the level of comfort wherein I can associate with wasps or allow a bee to wander on me rather than the nearby flora. And I do try not to get in their way whilst I’m setting after them with ye olde camera. There are boundaries. But I find them remarkable, now, rather than bothersome, and when I stop to smell the roses, I’ve always got an eye out for an interesting insect that may be nearby.

The Bee's Knees and Other Stories

Hook 'em While They're Young

I need to hang around more young children. Most non-geologically inclined adults look upon my hand samples as a personal quirk, one of those odd things about Dana that’s of a piece with her LOTR decor in the bedroom, and not quite as interesting as that. They like the pretty samples with the nice crystals and a lot of sparkles, but they lose interest by the time I whip out the mudstone.

But kids, now, they’re a different matter entirely.

Old friends of mine have just moved to the Northwest, and they came by for a visit with their grandkids in tow. Once the two boys had finished exhausting themselves on the playground outside, they came in and started staring at the rocks. They said what all the adults do: “Wow, you’ve got a lot of rocks.” That’s true. I have so many rocks now it turns me pale when I contemplate moving.

I thought I shouldn’t bore them, but I whipped out a few samples anyway, and started talking about how they were formed. I didn’t shy away from words like “subduction zone” and “metamorphose.” I gave them the hand lens and set them loose. And we ended up going through very nearly every rock in the house, even the little brown boring ones.

By the end of it, I’d enlisted the elder brother to pack samples out of the field, and he was talking about the need to start a collection of his own. The youngest begged two pieces of magnetized hematite off me. Then, when I walked them to the car, the elder picked up a pebble, asked me if it was granite (it was) and pocketed it with evident delight.

I’ve never had a more rapt audience, with more questions and understanding. They didn’t blink at the hard words (probably helped that I’d throw in a simple definition whenever those words came up). They soaked the knowledge in without glazing over after ten minutes. And it was one of the greatest times I’ve ever had. There’s nothing quite like giving kids the tools to understand a little more of the world around them.

It’s a good thing their grandparents love this stuff, too, and won’t mind that their charges are now going to be a bit rock-obsessed on hikes. Extra bonus: they’ll tire themselves out more hauling all those extra pounds. This is not a small consideration when you’ve got two energetic kids to contend with. Anything that works off that energy is a boon for adults.

So, we’ve got a pair of kids who will now be able to identify granite, gneiss and schist in the field, who’ll have a good chance at spotting turbidites, and know something of how a subduction zone works. They’re already good with their volcanics and limestones, having been exposed to quite a lot of those before they moved up here. They make me wish I knew more, because it doesn’t seem like there’s any end to their curiosity.

That’s the beautiful thing about kids. They’re starving. They want to know everything, they’re curious and adventurous, and all it takes is putting examples in their hands and talking to them about science to make them excited about it. Also, having grandparents with a “Got Science?” bumpersticker helps. We’re hooking them on science young, and even if they don’t go on to become scientists, they’ll have an appreciation for it that follows them throughout their lives. They’ll understand their world to a degree that many people never do.

Dumbing down science, or keeping it away from kids for religious reasons, is a travesty. So is the way we so often teach it, out of a book, with too little opportunity to get their hands on it. And don’t get me started on “chemical-free” chemistry sets.

So here’s what I’ve learned from that brief foray into informal teaching: kids are interested in the dull-looking stuff just as much as shiny, because they haven’t told themselves there’s nothing interesting about the dull-looking stuff. You can lob big words and concepts at them, and they’ll catch them well enough, probably better than many adults. Then you turn them loose to use what they’ve just learned. Well, that and leave them to watch X-Men while the adults finally have that conversation they haven’t been able to enjoy IRL for far too many years.

And I love this stuff. I’ve never wanted kids of my own, and still don’t, but I’m going to have to borrow some more friends’ kids more often. Showing them things about the world they’ve never seen is great good fun, and will hopefully help them get through the endless dull school days wherein it seems the only point is to quench the thirst for knowledge.

Hook 'em While They're Young

Geological Words that Sound Vaguely Naughty: Nuée Ardente

I’m sorry, I really am, but a nuée ardente isn’t some amazingly sensual French dance along the same lines of the tango. If it’s any comfort, though, it is hot. Really hot. Like, almost 2,000 degrees F.

The thing about French is it makes everything sound beautiful and elegant. Like this: nuée ardente. Glowing cloud. Doesn’t that sound lovely? We like glowing clouds. They’re pretty. And it almost sounds like some metaphor for a sexual delight, along the lines of le petite mort, which is such wonderful euphemism for an orgasm. Just remember, though, the French are the same people who can call you a shithead and make it sound sophisticated. So when they speak of glowing clouds, you might want to suspect they’re not talking about something altogether pleasant.

It’s really not.

Mount Pelée’s nuée ardente

I found this out as a tender young age, whilst reading a book entitled Ripley’s Believe it or Not: Great Disasters. This is the perfect book for children. It’s got blood and gore and destruction aplenty. And it had an essay on the 1902 eruption of Mount Pelée, in which the term nuée ardente was used. I remember the accompanying illustration was of Louis-Auguste Cyparis staring out at the flattened city of Saint-Pierre from the bars of his prison cell. Who says crime doesn’t pay? Saved his life, because if he hadn’t been in that protected space, he would’ve been fried. As it was, he merely got baked.

So what was this nuée ardente that sounds so lovely, and yet is so deadly? The modern scientific term for it is pyroclastic flow. That’s good Greek, that, very evocative: fire broken in pieces. The “fire” is superheated gasses, which can attain temperatures of nearly 2,000 degrees F. The “broken in pieces” are chunks of pumice and rocks (sometimes even boulders), combined with ash. Mix it all up, and you have a recipe for painful death if you’re in its path, and pure horrifying awesome if you’re not. This is one of the most dramatic, dangerous things a volcano does.

View of Ridge at Spirit Lake. Note baldness. Photo by Moi.

I remember watching a television program on volcanoes back in the 90s, in which they showed the eruption of Mount Pinatubo. There were farmers in a field, and this pyroclastic flow came rushing down the mountain with its roiling, boiling gray clouds of doom, and the poor buggers were trying to run away. I’m sorry, but unless you run for a ridge or try to get into some protected spot like, oh, say, an underground dungeon, you’re out of luck: those flows travel at speeds of around 60-150 miles per hour. Some sources claim they can go even faster, but that’s irrelevant when you’re considering whether you can outrun one. And even if you somehow manage to see the thing coming and get to the other side of a ridge before it reaches you, you may still be royally screwed. If it’s a pyroclastic surge rather than flow, it might see the ridge as more of an inconvenience than a barrier. You’re really better off staying out of range of any possible pyroclastic anythings to begin with.

Pyroclastic Flow at Night, Soufrière Hills. See link for more.

Here we see the reason why the French went with the term “glowing cloud” rather than “fire broken in pieces.” This is a pyroclastic flow at night. It looks rather like a cloud that glows. Hell of an amazing light show, for those who can watch from a safe distance. Geology can be beautiful and terrible all at once. The Earth is so remarkably powerful, and few things illustrate that power so well as a pyroclastic flow.

They make for some amazing rocks, too, but we’ll wait to discuss those until I have some drool-worthy photos from the field. For now, just savor the term nuée ardente for a bit, and maybe work up a suitably gorgeous yet dangerous-looking dance to go with it.

Tip o’ the shot glass to Elli Goeke, who mentioned that lovely phrase and got me thinking about it.

Geological Words that Sound Vaguely Naughty: Nuée Ardente

Colliding Continents Make Beautiful Scenery, Parte the Third: The Islands, Mon!

All rested up from Ross Lake, I trust? I certainly hope so. We’ve got some island-hopping to do. Never mind that it’s overcast and rather chilly – this is the Pacific Northwest. If it ain’t peeing down rain, it’s a beautiful day.

We will, however, get a late start. Might as well have a leisurely lie-in and futz around until check-out time, then head over to Anacortes for picnic supplies. While you’re there, check out the view:



Oh, yeah. I do believe that’s Hat Island, and just beyond it Mount Baker puts on a majestic display. This is subduction zone living at its finest.

We went back to Rosario Beach for some follow-up investigation of tide pools and so forth, during which we saw the circle of life in all its glory. In other words, the sea creatures were having lunch, too. I’ll be showing you a lot of lovely photos from that experience, once I’ve got them suitably enhanced. We saw an absolute ton of tiny little hermit crabs in the tide pools, too cute! And starfish and sculpins! Lots of adorable little critters make their living in that harsh environment. It leads to an abundance of squee.

However, we’re also pretty close to the naval air station on Whidbey Island, and on a weekday, you’ll see a plethora of these fly overhead, reminding you you’re not off in the wilds somewhere:



This is the perfect time to tell you I wanted to be an Air Force pilot once, but my vision is teh suck and my desire to join the military only slightly less sucky. Still. Would’ve loved to fly one of these beauties, and might have done, if that ill-fated attempt to switch my recruitment from the Army to the Navy had gone at all well. Yes, I did once decide I wanted to join the military, but the Army’s recruitment process seems designed to ensure that no one makes it through. Probably different now, but this was back in the 90s, when we didn’t have several wars on. Well, after a day spent with demoralized-looking hangdog folk stuck with the unglamorous task of processing potential recruits, the group of us were seriously rethinking our decision. Then the Navy boys went marching down the hall, sparking in their navy-blue uniforms, backs ramrod-straight and pride oozing from every orifice.

“We want to join the Navy!” the group of us said.

“You can’t,” our recruiter said. “You’re here for the Army.”

And so, en masse, the lot of us said, “Fuck that, sir!” and did not end up serving our country. Probably just as well, in my case. They might’ve told me to shoot someone at some point, to which I would’ve said, “Fuck that, sir!” and gotten dishonorably discharged.

Anyway. I digress. Where were we? Ah, yes, lovely marine views. Here’s a nice one of Sharpe Cove.



I see the panorama software has issues with waves. Sigh. Still, you get the general idea: all green and blue and lovely.

The clouds actually deigned to part a bit over the Olympics, with excellent results:



I always laugh when places around here boast of views of the Olympics. Unless you’re standing right on top of the Olympics, chances of a view are slim-to-none, and even in the middle of the mountains, it’s chancy.

However, there are times when those rumored views become reality, and this was one.



After we got done at Rosario, we headed over to Whidbey Island and what we thought was Blower’s Bluff. However. I turned right when I should’ve turned left. So we saw a bluff, but not Blower’s. Still, no regrets. Look who I stumbled across on the beach:



A shrimp! A real, live shrimp, which I have never seen in the wild my entire life. Poor little bugger was stuck in a puddle left by the tide, and he was Not Happy. Or she. I have no idea how to sex a shrimp. I do know that when you pick them up thinking they’re dead, and them put them down again, they curl into a rather miserable-looking fetal position:



Isn’t that just the cutest little pathetic shrimp in a fetal position you’ve ever seen? Total Emo Shrimp. Poor thing. After showing him/her to my intrepid companion, I had a free-the-shrimp moment.



It seemed rather happier with open water and a bay before it.

So my intrepid companion, suitably unimpressed with my shrimp-freeing activities, wandered off, and I proceeded to photograph the shit out of the bluff. Interesting driftwood up against it in some places – I particularly like the roots on these:



It’s not often they’re that square. Nature does odd things sometimes.

Speaking of odd things, why not feast your eyes on glacial leavings? Here’s a nice view of the mysterious bluff, which is composed of glacial deposits.



Enjoy it while it lasts. That bluff is retreating at an alarming rate. People building close to the edge of it are hopefully not anticipating being there for long, because they won’t be. Glacial sediments do not a stable oceanfront foundation make.

And here endeth the outtakes. Someday soon, I’ll be showing you the geology up-close and intimate. We’ll have tide pool tales, dueling herons, and absolute bouquets of wildflowers. Just let me get back from Oregon and recover…

Colliding Continents Make Beautiful Scenery, Parte the Third: The Islands, Mon!

Rocks to Burn: Coal Creek Trail

I’m a coal miner’s daughter, which goes a long way toward explaining why Monday’s mini-adventure delighted me so. All right, so he never did any actual mining – he’s an engineer. And he’s a concrete rather than coal man these days. And I’ve become a green energy advocate. But none of that changes the fact I’m a coal miner’s daughter, and coal is part of my personal history.

I get even more excited by coal now that I know what it is and what it tells us about ancient environments. Take Seattle. You don’t think of Seattle as coal country, not with all those thick glacial deposits draped over everything and all the drama from the subduction zone dominating the scenery, but there’s this place called Coal Creek, and it’s not a misnomer. Back in the Eocene, Seattle and its environs were a maclargehuge floodplain, filled with sediments and swamps. All the ingredients necessary for cooking up some coal existed right here. Those dramatic mountains and glacial landforms are johnny-come-latelies.

And I’m shamed to admit that it’s the mountains that drew us. We wanted a simple little hike with a view, and considering you can drive right to the top of Cougar Mountain rather than having to climb it, we figured that was just the ticket. The sun hadn’t come out yet, but the weather forecast said we’d get some nice bright sunshine in the afternoon.

The weather man, he lied.

The cloud cover stayed stubbornly thick, and turned the Million Dollar View into something worth maybe $250,000 at best.

Million Dollar Viewpoint. Well, you can sorta make out million-dollar homes…

That, by the way, is about the only spot where there is a view – most of it’s blocked by trees. Lots and lots of trees. So even when there’s no clouds, there’s trees. Stupid trees everywhere. All right, so they fix carbon dioxide and give us lovely oxygen. Okay. But they still block the bits of the view the clouds haven’t blocked.

But what the hell, we were up there anyway. Cougar Mountain was an anti-aircraft installation back in the day. Why not take the Anti-Aircraft Ridge trail and see where those had been?

Trees. Bushes. Concrete slabs. Oh, and a cell tower. Woot.

By this time, depression was beginning to set in. However, I’d read about a trail that went down along Coal Creek and supposedly showed some old mining stuff. We’d been after views, but maybe old mining stuff would do. And hey, bonus waterfall.

So we get down to the bottom of the mountain, and take this little trail to Ford Slope, and we cross a bridge over Coal Creek, and I see some rocks in it.

Coal Creek Rockage

“Hey,” I says, “that looks kinda like coal.” So I scrambled down for a look, and screamed for joy, because I’d just found my first-ever coal in the wild.

This, perhaps, should not be as exciting as it is to me, but again: coal miner’s daughter. And rock fiend. Combine the two into one small body, and you get someone who’s inordinately excited by little black rocks that burn.

A bit up the trail, you come to Ford Slope, where they did the mining. There’s a neat little display and the old mineshaft.

Moi with Mine

It’s filled in for safety, but yeah, that’s where they dug out the coal. Too freaking awesome. And if you continue up the trail, you’ll see the concrete foundation for a steam hoist, and a dam for the millpond, and probably lots of other cool stuff, but we turned back after the steam hoist because we wanted to take the actual Coal Creek trail.

That one takes you right alongside an even more shafty mineshaft.

Moi with Mine II

It’s filled with dirt, now, but it looks like you could dig out and continue operations. Just too wonderful. And freaky – the upper bits are nothing more than a hole carved through glacial deposits: clay, sand, and pebbles. Yeow. You can get a better look with this picture:

Moi with Mine III

Day-yam.

Now, it’s been a wet year, and we haven’t quite had a summer, but the creeks in the lowlands aren’t having any of that. They’re not exactly swelled. One branch of the creek bed was, by Seattle standards, dry as a bone. Being who I am, I started walking along it because it was filled with interesting rocks. There was this one enormous chunk of coal upon which someone had smashed a hunk of sandstone. And I played about with it. Fresh faces and all that. Besides, the Puget Group sometimes has fossils in it. I didn’t find anything 100% fossilriffic in the sandstone, but whilst playing around with it, I started to notice oddities about the big chunk of coal. So I went in for a closer look, walked round it, bent down to put my nose upon it, and let out a shriek. I’ve never before in my entire life found an enormous, undoubted, certified near-log of petrified wood, but my darlings, there is a first time for everything.

Moi with Petrified Log

There she is. Isn’t she a beaut? I’ve got macros I’ll be showing you when I do a proper write-up of the Puget Group. That creek bed was filled with petrified wood, with some very interesting details, and I’m not ashamed to admit that I was a total kid at Christmas. I haven’t been so happy in ages. No chunks small enough to haul home, alas, but at least I got to see these, and they are wonderful.

And then, just a ways down the creek bed, you start to hear falling water, and you come across this incredible sight:

Moi with North Fork Falls

Can you believe some Philistines say this isn’t an amazing waterfall? So what if it’s not the tallest or loudest or whatever – it’s bright orange. Just look at the iron oxide! You don’t see that in every Pacific Northwest waterfall (and a good thing, too). I could’ve sat there all day. And look at those lovely exposures of Puget Group sandstone!

We could’ve continued on to the locomotive turntable site and the cinder mine, but we hadn’t expected to hike quite so much and my intrepid companion was dying of thirst. Dunno why he didn’t want to drink orange water, other than the fact it’s probably filled with poisonous crap. I think the creek here drains some old mine tailings. So we headed back home.

And yes, I did set a little piece of my coal on fire when we got back. Can you blame me?

Rocks to Burn: Coal Creek Trail

Colliding Continents Make Beautiful Scenery, Parte the Second: Ross Lake

I’m from dry country. Put it like this: when we say “Grand Falls,” we mean a waterfall that doesn’t flow year-round, and when it does, it’s more like a very runny mud than actual water. When we say “river,” we’re often talking about something you can walk across dry-shod 352 days out of 365. Some desperate folk try kayaking in flash floods (not recommended), because otherwise, a kayaking adventure consists of picking the thing up and walking it down a bone-dry bed whilst closing one’s eyes, making paddling motions, and imagining you’re actually at risk of getting wet.

That, mind you, is in years with above-average rainfall.

How dry is it? Yuma once went two years without a single measurable drop of rain. We didn’t find it worth remarking until late in the second year.

I’m still making the adjustment to wet country. Four years on, there are still times, in late spring when all the foliage has completely leafed out, that I feel I am being menaced by all that looming green stuff. Perennial creeks aren’t yet a “yeah, so?” experience. I’ve finally reached the point where I can grumble about too many cloudy days rather than finding them a refreshing novelty, but when I head up into the Cascades, the merest trickle of water down a cliff still causes me to shriek “ZOMG look – waterfall!!” as if that’s something rare and precious. I do a lot of shrieking in the Cascades. There are a lot of waterfalls.

Such as this one:

That, I believe, is Gorge Creek Falls. So the sign said, anyway. We all know how far we can trust informative signs, especially after that thing with knots last time. It’s a waterfall right by the Gorge Dam, which wasn’t quite visible due to too much water. We’ve had a wet year, my friends, even for wet country.

Due to constant water, the biology gets a bit enthusiastic this side of the Cascades. And that’s because of the Cascades: you know that rain shadow thing? Well, put it like this: we are not in the rain shadow of the Cascades. No, what happens is that the lovely moist marine air that’s managed to survive the Olympics looks east and goes, “You know what, I think I’ll go to Wenatchee. I hear Wenatchee’s nice this time of year,” and the Cascades are all like

Source

and the marine air’s like

Source

and the Cascades are like

Source

and the marine air’s like

Source

and the Cascades are like

Source

and the next thing you know, it’s raining in Seattle. Again. And the plants are like

Source

And Wenatchee’s all like

Source

But just occasionally, you can find spots where the rocks have managed to avoid acquiring a thick coating of plant life, and you can see your geology up close and personal. Geologists are awesome. They’re about the only set of people who can find fault in something and go, “Awesome! A fault!”

I’m pretty sure this is one, but I’ll be requesting second opinions in a later post. It’s not like I’ve got a lot of experience finding faults in anything aside from creationist arguments and my own stories.

The Skagit River has a lot of dams on it. Seattle City Light uses the river to ensure that we do, in fact, have light. Ross Dam is one that you can actually go play round on, and it’s pretty dramatic.

It’s got that weird waffle-iron pattern because they’d intended to build it higher (which meant it would have also had to be thicker, if I understand my dam construction correctly), but due to folks deciding that we had enough flooded waterways already, thanks, it never got expanded. Still, 540 feet ain’t shabby.

One of the weirder sights on the way to the dam is a tugboat. Now, you might be thinking, “Well, Dana, there’s a big ol’ lake that goes all the way up to Canada there – what’s so weird about a tugboat? Lots of boats on a big ol’ lake, no reason there can’t be a tugboat.”

Well, yeah, except the tugboat isn’t exactly in the lake.

It’s just sitting there in a clearing in the woods by the side of the road, far from the marina. No idea how it got there, or what its story is. Weird and unexpected and totally fun.

So, I think I’ve mentioned the hike back up is all up. It’s a pretty steep climb, and it’s hot when the sun’s out. This is probably one of the only places in western Washington that boasts actual dry dirt. I mean, it’s a trail with actual dust on it. Dry dirt is something of a novelty item round here, and this former Arizonan was so delighted by it she nearly took her shoes off so she could wiggle her toeses in something resembling home. But the climb back up reminded me why I’d been happy to leave hot, dusty trails behind lo those many years ago: namely, because they’re hot and dusty. Happily, there’s Happy Creek to look forward to. Remember how I said you can’t spit in the Cascades without hitting a waterfall? Huzzah for that!

We had a long, happy sit-down by Happy Creek. The water’s so cold you can put your bottle of liquid refreshment in it (be careful to wedge it in the rocks or it will happily go sailing down the creek to go live in the lake), and a few minutes later, voila – you have an ice-cold drink. This is a magnificent thing for hot, dusty, normally-sedentary hikers.

After we’d recovered from the climb, and finished the rest of the climb, and recovered from that final bit, we headed down the road to this nice little scenic view overlooking Diablo Lake.

Is that spectacular or what? I mean, cloudless skies on the west side of the Cascades. Oh, and the lake and the mountains are pretty spiffy, too.

There is this itty bitty island in Diablo Lake that’s pretending really hard it’s a desert island in the Caribbean. Even the trees are in on the fantasy.

I’ll bet it gets rudely jolted back to reality every time it snows, but you’ve got to admire it for trying.

And there’s another thing there that will make geologists go squee, but I’m going to make you wait for it. I’m a cruel, evil cantinera, I know. But I’m not completely evil. I’m going to take you down to the limestone quarry now and show you a little something outstanding.

Oh, yes. The views of Mount Baker are that good.

Quite the eventful day, that. We didn’t get back to civilization until after nine, and we hauled our sweaty, dirty, exhausted selves into Carino’s, which kicks the Olive Garden’s ass. The service, the food, the decor, the fact they didn’t care a fig how icky we looked, all of it combined for a fantabulous meal, and by that time, we surely needed one. And they have mini-desserts. This is bloody genius. I mean, by the time you load up on all that pasta, you don’t want a whole huge slice of something, you feel like even one wafer-thin mint will have you splattering innards all over the restaurant a la Monte Python, but this adorable, tiny little dessert in a baby dish – now, that you can just about manage. I had the mini-turtle cheesecake. People, I could rhapsodize about the caramel and the chocolate and the cream all swirling together on the palette like a spoonful of utopia, but I’ll spare you that. Just bloody well go there and eat when you’re in the area, m’kay?

Then get a good night’s sleep, because we’re headed to the islands, mon.

Colliding Continents Make Beautiful Scenery, Parte the Second: Ross Lake

Colliding Continents Make Beautiful Scenery, Parte the First: Rosario

I’ll hit you in the face with the detailed geology later. And you will like it. However, in order to do this, I shall have to thoroughly research said geology first. So for now, I shall hit you in the face with a few basics and some delightful photos, and you will like it.

I’m beginning to believe the Pacific Northwest is the best place in the United States. Oh, sure, Arizona has drool-worthy rocks and some truly fascinating geological history. Same for southern California, and it has the added bonus of being all warm and sunny with an ocean to die for. The Basin and Range ain’t too shabby, and I’m sure Yellowstone’s all that. But if you want to see the real geologic mayhem, you’ve gotta head for an active subduction zone. Which is what we have got. And if you want to get a coast-to-mountains perspective without having to travel far, basing yourself in Mount Vernon is a damned good idea. So many amazing things within easy driving distance that we’ll probably be talking about them for months.

On our first day up there, my intrepid companion and I headed west. A quick drive down Highway 20 gets you to Anacortes, on Fidalgo Island. You can have a leisurely lunch whilst contemplating a bay ringed with refineries, and then a short drive takes you to Deception Pass.



Why Deception Pass, you ask? Well, because we missed the turn for Rosario Beach, and there wasn’t a convenient place to turn around, and by the time there was we were so close to the pass we went what the hell and headed on down… oh, you mean, why’s it named Deception Pass.

There’s a story in that, told on this convenient marker. However, you won’t be reading it at first if you’re a geology buff, because the bastards set it on some utterly delicious bare, contorted rock.



See?

Once you actually lift your nose from the outcrop and read the marker, you’ll discover the following:



For those who didn’t click to embiggen, it states,

Named by Captain George Vancouver, 10 June 1792, Feeling that he had been “deceived” as to the nature of the inner waterway, Port Gardner (now Saratoga Passage) he wrote on his chart “Deception Pass.” He honored Master Joseph whidbey, who found the passage while commanding a small-boat crew of explorers, by naming the island “Whidbey.”

Velocity of currents in Deception Pass 5 to 8 knots per hour. Depth varies 4 to 37 fathoms

1 knot 6082.66 feet           1 fathom 6 feet

Captain Vancouver was apparently upset they’d gone so long believing that Fidalgo and Whidbey Islands were actually one long peninsula before the pass revealed the truth, but he could have also named it for the currents. I mean, seriously, the damned strait flows in different directions depending on the tide, and there’s some pretty intense whirlpool action going on.



I mean, seriously, whirlpool.



And no, you couldn’t pay me enough to navigate that channel in a sail-powered wooden boat, thankyouverymuch.

Now, I’m no chicken when it comes to heights – I’ve hung out on ledges at the edge of the Grand Canyon (always with another nice ledge safely between me and the really painful drop, cuz I’m sensible like that), I’ve run on slickrock with a two-hundred foot fall on one side, I cut my teeth on high places – but walking that bridge over Deception Pass made me dizzy. Good dizzy. And there are some astonishingly beautiful sights to see, well worth the vertigo. We’ll see more of them when I write up the rocks and the islands and all that.

Right now, we’re turning our arses around and headed to Rosario Beach, where we’ll come across some amazingly contorted rocks and a beach with the world’s best skipping stones and ZOMG BABY BUNNY!!!



Yeah, some of the biology’s pretty cute, too.

And lovely. When you see this delightful little bay over the top of thriving fireweed, it makes you feel all tingly and happy inside.



So that’s a little bit of all right, then. You know what’s really all right? You’re looking at some really jumbled geology here. Terranes are just kind of squished and mashed together with the kind of chaotic exuberance that will either make a geologist scream for joy or rip out handfuls of hair, depending on the personality involved. The subduction zone doesn’t care about tidy little maps or orderly accretion – it just jams things in any-old-how. Kind of like my packing on the third day of a trip, actually….

We got there as the tide was coming in, so no tide pools for us. That’s all right. We had a wonderful ramble along the beach, playing with the skipping stones, and then sat on that nice pebbly shore for a good long while watching the waves work.



The rocks to the left are eroded bits of Rosario Head, where the tide pools are, and you can see the San Juans in the far distance, across Rosario Strait. The wee little island in the foreground is, I believe, Northwest Island, which is a bit of a dive (ahaha).

Afterward, we headed up on the headland, where the geology is to die for – wait till I show you it! The views are pretty damned spectacular, too, if you can tear your eyes off the rocks long enough to admire them.



There’s this one place on the side of the headland there where the rock is laid completely bare, and there are faults and all manner of fascinating things, and then, when you’re done exploring those, you can sit and watch the waves worry at the bits of the tide pools that have the audacity to stick up.



Does that, or does that not, make your stony hearts go pitter-pat, my dear geotweeps? And you don’t have to be a geologist to have your breath taken away by those rocks. They’re truly awe-inspiring. And you want to know what the best part is? They aren’t basalt! After the Oregon coast, it’s nice to know that scenery like this can be accomplished with humble old chert and shale, too.

After Rosario, we had a drive round Fidalgo, and came to a wee little park tucked in near the San Juan Ferry, where there were more fascinating rocks (natch), some glacial deposits, and a view across the strait that does the old heart good.



 Just sit here for a moment and contemplate the fact that none of these views would be here without the subduction zone and the Cordilleran ice sheet tag-teaming the place. You’re sitting on some comfy, chocolate-brown rocks with glacial deposits at your back. Just think about this, as the waves swash up and tickle your toeses, as you absorb all that peace and quiet, that beneath you the last of the Juan de Fuca plate, a remnant of the older and grander Farallon plate, is sliding beneath North America. You are the cherry on top of a nice, marbley layer cake of oceanic and continental crust. I suppose the glacial outwash counts as the icing.

Alas, ’tis time to leave the ocean behind. We’re headed for the hills next, and oh, what hills they are.

Colliding Continents Make Beautiful Scenery, Parte the First: Rosario

Unexpected Benefits of Rock Obsessions vol. 1

One of the many great things about Rosario Beach is its pebbles. The sea has spent a lot of time and effort on making perfect skipping stones. The whole beach is made of up naturally polished rocks, and if you listen as the tide comes in, you can hear the waves busily working away, turning bits of stone into smooth little discs. I love that.

So I shot some video, sitting there on the beach. You can actually feel it – as you’re sitting there, as the waves break, you hear the rattle of pebbles and feel the whole beach vibrate beneath you. I was too busy watching sunlight through curling water and tumbling rocks to notice at the time, but you’ll notice around the 21 second mark that I caught a leaping fish. Keep your eyes on the ocean in the middle-left, just to the right of the left-side sea stacks:

(If the video looks wonky, try going to YouTube directly and changing it to the highest resolution available. For some reason, it didn’t want to upload nicely, but it looks fine in HD.)

This is one of the great things about geology. It’s got me out in the sunshine noticing things I’ve never noticed before, even allowing me to catch things I didn’t know I’d caught! I love my leaping fishy.

If any of you have stories about unexpected benefits, feel free to share.

Unexpected Benefits of Rock Obsessions vol. 1

River Walking Parte the Fourth: Rubbernecking at a Continental Trainwreck

The word of the day, my darlings, is granite. The Skykomish River seems to be inordinately fond of granite. It’s hauled down enormous chunks of it, probably plucking them from the Index Batholith, and scattered them all over its banks after a desultory bit of rounding. Walk its Cascade banks, and you’re in a gray area. It’s gray because it’s granite.



Well, granitic, anyway. Grandiorite, most likely. Maybe some tonalite, too. Look, they’re granitic, and they’re from plutons and batholiths, and that’s what really matters.

They are large. The river isn’t messing about, here: it’s swift and strong and likes boulders. It also likes variety. Scattered amidst the granitic rocks are boulders and chunks of some truly delightful stuff. And what it’s all got to say is this: you are rubbernecking at a continental trainwreck. An island continent collided with the North American continent about fifty million years ago, and the lives of these rocks changed dramatically.

Slow down, take a long look at the beautiful carnage – this is one time when you don’t have to feel guilty for gawking at an accident scene.



Here we have a boulder of a granite-like substance. What is this rock telling us? Well, it’s letting me know I don’t know jack diddly about why it’s got those lovely mauve and blue colors in the left bits, or what that white streak is (probably pegmatite or quartz, but I didn’t walk over for a closer look – too many other goodies demanding my attention). But the main thing it’s saying is that things went crunch. The North Cascades are full of these plutons and batholiths, which formed when the North Cascades subcontinent ran in to North America. Subduction zones munched seafloor on both sides of the island, things heated up, and crustal rocks formed these lovely granitic melts over tens of millions of years. The Index batholith is about 35 million years old, just a youngster. Those melts welded the interloper on to North America.

When continents collide, and subduction zones subduct, you end up with far more fascinating stuff than granite.



I have no idea what this is. It’s metamorphic, that much I’m sure of. Enormous chunks of metamorphic rock end up here on the riverbanks. Even the granite doesn’t always seem to have escaped a good squishing.



This boulder fascinated me:



I’m not sure what it is, alas – getting better at identifying random chunks of rock, but a lot of stuff on the banks defeated me. But the shapes, the colors, the textures, of this boulder were mesmerizing. Hopefully, one of my geotweeps will know what we’re looking at.





The rocks here make me appreciate the early geologists all the more. Staring round in perplexity at such a variety of amazing stones, not knowing what many of them are, trying to make sense of it all and sometimes throwing my hands up in defeat, puts me in touch with the folks who started the field. And they didn’t even have geologic maps and plate tectonic theory to work with. They just had curiosity and intelligence and a gift for puzzling things out.

This looks like a breccia, or something mashed up in the subduction zone, or a breccia mashed up in the subduction zone:



It can be desperately hard to tell, especially for a rank amateur, what a rock is when it’s ripped from its context.

Like this sun-colored sensation:



There were a few of these, and they pop in those mostly-gray surroundings. They didn’t seem grainy enough for sandstone, but perhaps a metamorphosed variety thereof? Something else completely? Dunno. Someday, I’ll find out, and you just watch me end up writing an ode to them. I get that way about rocks. They make me all misty-eyed.

Here’s another fascinating boulder I’m at a loss to identify:



It’s whispering a few things to me. It’s talking about heat, and pressure, and strain. You can tell from the way it’s streaked and by its hardness. Hard times make for hard rocks.

A couple of close views, in which its character is revealed:





And by now you’re thinking, “Geez, Dana, you went a little wild on the saturation, there. Turned your thumb red.” That’s not the photo editor – I’d been washing rocks in the river. That river is fed by snowmelt, people, and it is fuh-reezing. In fact, when I was editing these, I kept trying for a flesh-colored thumb and wondering why the rocks were all washed out and dull until I remembered how red my hands were!

Here’s another bit of unnamed yum:



And by now it becomes clear I’ve got a hell of a lot to learn about rock and roll – I haven’t the foggiest what this is, why there are these rich brown stripes in it, and the actual mechanics of a river plucking it up and rolling it along until something that’s super-hard becomes rounded.

We haven’t been properly introduced, but I can’t help getting close.



This one was delightfully smooth, polished to a turn by its tumble in the river. I wanted to hold it and squeeze it and pet it and love it, and call it georgite.

Here’s one that’s kind of blah from a distance, but mesmerizing in macro.



I love textures like this, rocks that almost look like wood, with a wonderful grain. I wish I knew what it once was. Perhaps it’s one of those lightly-metamorphosed seafloor sediments that got stuffed into the trench. Some of the rocks round here were treated gently enough in their trip down the subduction zone and back up in the orogeny that fossils are still identifiable in them.

Here we have some suspected serpentinite.



The river brought out its colors wonderfully. And yes, I know, there should be something for scale, but what I had were my feet and my hands, both sets of which looked at that icy cold water and went, “No fucking way.” As I recall, it was one of the smaller samples, a little bigger than my hand.

Along the river bank with its mostly rounded rocks, right by that eye-popping bit of suspected serpentinite, an outlier caught my eye.



What was it? Part of the river bed? How had it managed not to get worn down? I ventured onto a nearby boulder and crouched for a close inspection.



Clay! A pure hunk of clay I could practically throw a pot from, right then and there. I hesitate to admit how excited this made me. I screamed “Clay!” over the cacophony of the river. Actually, shouted it more than once, because my poor intrepid companion couldn’t hear a bloody word and had no idea what I was shrieking over. Then he looked a bit bemused that I could get so excited over something so ordinary. But where I come from, clay is never in big wet chunks like this. It’s more like dry flakes. Finding blocks that you can actually model with, masquerading as a rock, is probably more captivating than it should be.

It also nearly tipped me into the river before I figured out what it was. Clay is, in fact, slippery when wet.

And just look at the awesome shapes it makes:



Now, really, can you blame me for getting so giddy?

Aaaand we’re right back to me being clueless.



But it’s purty.

Now, here’s something quite exciting:



This, my darlings, might quite possibly be an example of the Nason Ridge Magmatitic Gneiss, or a relation thereof. It’s certainly got to be a migmatite, anyway. This one’s for Christian Renggli, who clued me in.



Andrew Alden described migmatites as rocks that had “been buried very deep and squeezed very hard.” Fair description – you can tell this rock has had a hell of a life down there in the trench.

While we’re on the subject of gneiss….



Isn’t she a beaut?

This one, I think, may have been granite at one point in its life, or aspiring to become granite, or I could be completely and absolutely wrong, but I love the snowflake textures in it.



A closer look at what made it stand out from all the other pale-and-dark speckled rocks:



Different rocks affect me in different ways. This one gave me a serene sensation. I’m not sure why. There’s just something about it – no streaks, no speckles, just these dark and light patterns that look so much like snowflakes do when a few gather on a rail and get ready to melt – that made me sit back and breathe.  It still does that. Looking at it feels like a meditation.

Now, this one isn’t going to look like much, but I’m thrilled with it:



Marble, people! I’d swear that’s marble. I loves me some wild marble. We’ve got a bit of it, no deposits like Italy that I know of, but enough that we’ve got a town named Marblemount. Though that could’ve been named after limestone for people trying to be posh – with a town named Concrete nearby, you know there are limestone deposits. But I digress. Yes, we have marble in the wild, and yes, this seems to be a fine specimen. Makes me want to bust out the chisel and make like Michelangelo.

And, for our finale (drumroll, please), a fine bit of phyllite – or possibly slate:



Finding that shattered and gleaming was one of the high points of the day. Love that stuff. Very happy to have brought home a large piece of it. I can hold it in my hands and dream of deep sea floors that got nommed by a trench, then spat back out.

Okay, so that doesn’t quite sound romantic or captivating, but it’s what happened. And who says dreams can’t be humorous?

I shall have quite a lot more to say about this whole orogeny incident, the North Cascades Subcontinent, and even perhaps a fault when I get images sorted from our adventures up north. Watch this space.

River Walking Parte the Fourth: Rubbernecking at a Continental Trainwreck